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Peninsula Trip Part 2 – Introduction
Day 1: Kuala Lipis, Gua Musang
Day 1: Kota Bharu
In the first day, we have traveled from KL to the very northeast of Peninsula Malaysia. The journey began from the heart of Malaysia economic development (Kuala Lumpur), to a state enriched with forestry resources (Pahang), and then hooking at the first Islamic state of Malaysia (Kelantan). The surrounding environment of our route changes from metropolitan city, to misty greenery, picturesque limestone caves, and finally signboards of Jawi letters.
From second day onwards, our plan was to start heading southwards, along the east coast. By 8am, all of us have already waked up from the comfortable beds at Ah Fai’s house. Surrounding us was a green misty scene.
Breakfast at White House Kopitiam
Wow~~! What a big pleasure. We were at the White House for breakfast!
“Ya ya.. I don’t bluff you one.. we had breakfast at White House. Yes again, if you didn’t hear me right; I’m saying White House Kopitiam”
Located at Jalan Sultanah Zainab, White House Kopitiam is found opposite the Padang Merdeka, and beside the State Museum. Owned by a Chinese old man, but this is a Halal dining place. Apparently, this kopitiam is quite “wai sui”, very famous in Kota Bharu. It was full of crowd during our visit on Sunday morning.
White House Kopitiam is known for its toasted breads, half boiled eggs, nasi dagang and nasi lauk. Frankly speaking, the toasted bread at Kuala Lipis Tongkok Hotel is much better than White House Kopitiam. Though satisfying, but the color of kaya spread served at White House Kopitiam, told me that it wasn’t made from authentic kaya recipe. Authentic kaya should be light brown in color; not dark brown, not green, and not yellow.
The half boiled eggs served have passed my benchmark – yolks were really half boiled and egg white was slightly congealed. However, out of 7 sets of half boiled eggs served, there was 1 set with broken yolks. By right, to upkeep the kopitiam’s reputation, they shouldn’t even serve it out, if yolk was broken. True enough, not everyone minds about broken yolk; but people like me who prefer to swallow the yolk in one mouth-full style, really mind about broken yolk. (of course I wasn’t the one to take the set of broken yolks lo :p)
According to Ah Fai, the local Chinese Kelantanese have other better preferred kopitiams. So in other words, we kind of ended up in a more touristic kopitiam la hehe. The bill was on pricey side. If I have to pay KL price in Kota Bharu, isn’t this considered pricey? I know I don’t have to pay KL price when dining in Melaka kopitiam.
Keropok Lekor Losong and Sweet Potato
When you’re at east coast Peninsula Malaysia, especially Kelantan and Terengganu, never leave the state without trying the delicious keropok lekor losong. Though we can quite easily get keropok lekor in any other Peninsula states, but mostly don’t taste as nice. At some places, I hate the rotten smell of cooking oil too, which resulted from weeks of repetitive reused cooking.
Ah Fai brought us to a local road-side stall at Seri Cemerlang, which is especially famous for keropok lekor losong and fried sweet potato. The keropok was very nice to be chewed; it gives a decent degree of springiness despite the crispy outer layer. The fried sweet potatoes are just simply too irresistible to be eaten while it’s hot. At about RM1 for 5 pieces, this stall is definitely worth revisiting.
Wat Pothivihan
Despite its Islamic state ruling, Kelantan is rather religiously harmonious I must say, with many huge Thai Buddhism temples found in Kota Bharu, boldly featuring record-breaking Buddha statues. Some of these Thai Buddhism temples are iconic in Malaysia.
Wat Pothivihan (or Wat Phothiviharn), also known as Temple of the Reclining Buddha, located at Kampung Jambu of Tumpat, is one of the most-visited temples in Kota Bharu. With the 40 meters long reclining Buddha statue, it is the longest in Southeast Asia.
Besides the iconic reclining Buddha statue, Wat Pothivihan is also housing many statues of the well-known Thai Guru monks, such as Luang Phor Thuad.
Wah~~~ not just about Buddha statues, but there was a beantiful peacock at Wat Pothivihan too! This is definitely luring enough for any photography enthusiast. I was pushing my camera lens against the fence, and zoom in to get this fence-less composition. However, at a price though. I wasn’t aware of a rusted wireframe near my squatted legs, and I accidently got a big cut.
We had coconuts during the hot noon time.
Wat Machimmaram
Didn’t I tell you that Kelantan is know with many iconic Thai Buddhism temples? Besides the longest reclining Buddha in SEA, we’ve also visited Wat Machimmaram (or Wat Machimaram) for the tallest sitting Buddha in Southeast Asia.
Wat Machimmaram is another temple situated in Tumpat. The 30-meter high, 47-metre wide statue of brown Buddha (Phra Buddha Bharambedharm Chamruslok) with pure gold lips was sitting cross-legged in a meditation pose atop Wat Machimmaram.
This temple shows how much of supports it has gained from Buddhism followers. The fact is, without strong financial support, Wat Machimmaram couldn’t be as grand as it is now.
Undoubtedly, Wat Machimmaram is quite a good photography place.
For your information, the Wat Pothivihan and Wat Machimmaram are the exact same temples that I’ve visited during the previous Kelantan trip in year 2005.
Lunch at U-Lang Corner
Nowadays, when we stumble upon any food which comes in uncommon color, the first thing that comes into our mind is artificial coloring. No choice, the modern lifestyle is full of artificial ingredients.
However, at U-Lang Corner (Jalan Wakaf Mek Zainab), you needn’t be afraid seeing the green color rice. It’s the Thai version of nasi kerabu, called khao jam (青葉飯), which is cooked with (about) 50 types of natural plants, leaves and roots, using quality Thai fragrant rice. Thus, the rice appears green.
Each plate of the green rice is served with fresh slices of cucumber and onion, as well as bean sprouts. I’m really impressed with the bean sprouts here. Most of the time, bean sprouts give a kind of funny smell; but this typical bean sprout smell is not found at this khao jam at all.
Besides the nutrition-enriched rice and its complementing fresh vegetables, there are also 2 types of meat for your choice – fried chicken and fried fish. During our visit, fried chicken was sold out, so we had the fried fish instead as side dish instead.
Not all the 50 types of plants, leaves and roots can be bought in local wet market. So, the owner needs to get the missing ingredients from jungles in Tumpat.
This khao jam is the most special food that I had in Kelantan. It’s unique, and it worth the price.
Pulut Tapai Cendol at Jalan Long Yunus
Being grown up in Melaka, pulut (glutinous rice) never come into my mind to be a companion of cendol. In Melaka, the impression for cendol is very typical – a bowl of shaved ice, with green cendol, red beans being optional, topped with thick gula Melaka (brown sugar).
Ah Fai brought us to a famous stall at Jalan Long Yunus, for pulut tapai cendol. When pulut cendol was already something new to me, the addition of tapai into cendol was a total stranger.
Wah colourful right? The yellow thing is tapai, which tastes sour. But when all put together, then you have a bowlful or cupful of wonder with icy sweet sour taste. Excellent!
Each bowl of normal pulut tapai cendol was sold at RM1.80 (pretty cheap I must say, comparing to Melaka cendol which doesn’t have as much ingredients). Because of the glutinous rice, this pulut tapai cendol can hardly be categorized as after-meal dessert; it makes you full!
We bid farewell to Ah Fai at the cendol stall, which signifies the end of our Kelantan food hunt itinerary, and proceeded to our next destination – Merang beach in Terengganu. Stay tuned for my next update 
Hehe sorry la, I know my update is very slow. After a month and I’m only at the second day of our itinerary :p Don’t blame me la.. not easy to write a lengthy post with so much details le hahaha.
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wow.. makes my mouth water with all the nice photos.. have to start making a list of things I wanna eat when I reach back.. the toasted bread with half boiled eggs are a must.. hehe